travel diary Darwin-Perth Please read as well the travel diaries: Sydney-Darwin / Sydney-Cairns / Adelaide-Hobart
Darwin Kununurra Fitzroy Crossing Broome Karijini NP Monkey Mia Cervantes (Pinnacles) Hyden (Wave Rock) Pemberton Perth Rottnest Island		June 2nd, 2002 (Frankfurt -> Singapore) Eventually the time has come, much early than I expected I'm heading for Australia again three years after my first visit in 1999 when I drove from Sydney to Darwin and from Sydney to Cairns. A few minutes after nine the plane leaves Frankfurt heading eastwards to Singapore.		Darwin
		June 3rd, 2002 (Singapore -> Darwin) I'm looking forward coming to Australia but as well think a little bit sceptically of this time being there on my own from the beginning. I enjoy the soccer games of the World Cup showed on TV in the airport lounge of Singapore. I have got a cappuccino not knowing that it is one of the last ones I'll have within the next couple of weeks. After scanning the guide book of Australia the flight continues...
		June 04th, 2002 (Darwin) Although I'm standing on Australian soil I'm not quite happy as it is five o'clock in the morning and I'm dog tired. Although the fee for the shuttle to the city is more expensive then three years ago the city seems to be unchanged. Luckily NOTE: the Melaleuca Lodge opens at 5:30 in the morning! I check in, take a shower and lay myself down at 6:15. I refuse to stand up before nine to have some free pancakes but buy my breakfast at Woolworth's: a banana, a roll with a Mars bar and some water :-) I try a cappuccino at Monty's on the Mall and an internet cafe. Having pasta for dinner (could have been more spicy, but the Australians just know how to grill a steak ;-) I think of the next days and what to buy for the journey. NOTE: Always consider those things in advance!
Darwin Kununurra Fitzroy Crossing Broome Karijini NP Monkey Mia Cervantes (Pinnacles) Hyden (Wave Rock) Pemberton Perth Rottnest Island		June 5th, 2002 (Darwin -> Katherine) Don't like to stand up (Good morning, jetlag!) but I force myself and participate the pancake breakfast and then take the shuttle to the Britz car rental, do the paperwork and start driving down the track. I've got no problems driving on the left and have my first stop in NOTE: Coolalinga, because there is a Woolworth's with a big car park. I buy food and water. NOTE: You can't repeat often enough, that you should carry at least 10 liters of water per person and day with you heading the outback! On my way to Katherine I pass Litchfield NP and Nitmiluk NP, which I know from my first visit :-) But I stop at the gold mining town Pine Creek and at the Katherine Low Level Park, which is not very interesting. In the visitor center I enquire for the Kookaburra Lodge and book a corrobbee (traditional Aboriginal dance) for the night. The event is interesting but could have been better. Many dances were repeated without any reason and the presenter was somewhat awkward. In addition it was a cool night. NOTE: You should prepare warm cloths when you go out at night! (At least in this season, because it's winter).		Kununurra
		June 6th, 2002 (Katherine -> Kununurra) Get up at 7.30 although I had not much sleep and drive to Victoria River Crossing. The name is a good example for the Australian way of giving names: There is a road crossing the Victoria River. That's it! Oh, and there is a roadhouse, but that really is all :-) NOTE: At the roadhouse I book the flight over the Bungle Bungles starting from Kununurra by phone. My accomodation for tonight had already been booked by my backpacker in Katherine :-) I drive to the Keep River NP and am very disappointed. Not only because there is a sign telling me "Road Closed" about one kilometer from the end of the road. There is just nothing to see! Instead my car would love to drive through a car wash after 40 kilometers on unsealed road. One comes to the other NOTE: at the border between the Northern Territory and Western Australia all fruits must be thrown away (ot at least eaten...)! This is due to the fruit fly that makes Australians react like Europeans when someone talks about rats during dinner. In addition you should be aware that there is a time shift between NT ans WA of 1,5 hours! Highlight of the day is NOTE: the sunset seen from The Knob, you should be there about 4.45 p.m.!		view from Knob
		June 7th, 2002 (Kununurra -> Wyndham) Although I had the whole room for myself I didn't sleep well. I check out and am picked up by the courtesy bus of the local airport. Why are there always very old people joining my scenic flights? Because they can afford it?! The flight is great, but the old man next to me is unfortunately not aware that he sometimes hinders me in taking pictures. Kununurra is unexpectedly colourful with its irrigation systems, the rest of land is dreary but still impressing. Lake Argyle lies there like an oasis, some layer combs remind me of my minor subject geography during my studies of meteorology. The Bungle Bungles in Purnululu NP are the highlight of the flight. The senior citizens are dropped in the desert, because they'll do a tour through the bungles. So apart from the Captain and his vice I've got the Cessna for myself on the way back :-) In the middle of nowhere the Argyle diamond mine appears, then after a few Ks I'm back on my feet again heading Wyndham. The tourist information is in the petrol station, where I get a map of the town and visit all the sights. I try to phone for accomodation in Fitzroy Crossing tomorrow but I fail. So I'm not quite sure what will happen to me there...		Lake Argyle Bungle Bungles Fitzroy
Darwin Kununurra Fitzroy Crossing Broome Karijini NP Monkey Mia Cervantes (Pinnacles) Hyden (Wave Rock) Pemberton Perth Rottnest Island		June 8th, 2002 (Wyndham -> Fitzroy Crossing) There is early trouble in the house, so that I'm having breakfast on my own at 6.45 a.m. I drive straight to Halls Creek and after asking once I repair to the China Wall which is not bad. Skipping a scenic flight over Wolfs Creek Crater I continue to Fitzroy Crossing. There it happens: The backpacker that I always tried to call is shut down due to flooding a few weeks ago! So I have to choose a - as well damaged - motel, paying far too much. In addition it's a bit droll seeing a lot of aborigines sitting under the trees between "No drinking in this area"-signs that seem to hang everywhere. From 6:30 p.m. you can have food in the restaurant. I go there at 7 o'clock and realise that they just closed! Seems to me that I'm the only paying guest anyway... But the friendly waitress prepares microwave pasta and somewhat a.y.c.e. salad directly from the tupperware box. So I'm lucky again, particularly because I even may participate an employees' tour of the local Visitor Center to Windjana Gorge and Tunnel Creek tomorrow. Great!
		June 9th, 2002 (Fitzroy Crossing) Get up at 6.00 a.m. recognising that there's a power failure! But fortunately the power comes back shortly, so that I prefer hot coffee instead of shaving. Who cares? Then to Tunnel Creek. After entering the unsealed road leading there, I'm happy that I chose a tour instead of driving by myself! It's bumpy and without a roadsign you would pass Tunnel Creek not knowing. But actually it's really more impressing than you would imagine! A suburban creek becomes at least interesting as you walk along fresh water prawns in the shallow water! Our aboriginal guide tells us some background stories and afterwards it's tea time. We continue to Lillimooloora and Windjana Gorge where we meet some bored but not at all boring fresh water crocodiles. This night we've got barbecue in the motel, well... :-)		Windjana Gorge Broome
		June 10th, 2002 (Fitzroy Crossing -> Broome) It has become routine for me getting up at 6.00 a.m. :-) Walk around in Geikie Gorge for two hours. NOTE: In the morning it's not in good light, come in the evening! The gorge is absolutely worth visiting! But after meeting a king brown in Windjana Gorge yesterday several snake's tracks are scaring me. Because I finally survive I drive to Derby and visit the typical tourists' sights: Prison Tree and Myall's Boar. After refilling my supplies I head back on highway A1 approaching Broome. I've got some problems to find Gantheaume Point, but I manage to be there before dusk. Stroll along the beach and then roll by car to Cable Beach where I make a reservation in a backpacker. The room is messy so I flee to NOTE: the sunset at Cable Beach: amazing! In the backpacker I have to use my plastic cutlery and plates for the first time and am looking forward to leaving tomorrow. Now I realise what I paid for in Fitzroy Crossing: silence!		Cable Beach
Darwin Kununurra Fitzroy Crossing Broome Karijini NP Monkey Mia Cervantes (Pinnacles) Hyden (Wave Rock) Pemberton Perth Rottnest Island		June 11th, 2002 (Broome -> Port Hedland) The backpacker's staff is not on duty so that it takes some time until I get back my key deposit. After driving through Chinatown I get my first NOTE: free coffee for driver in the Roebuck Roadhouse. The road to Port Hedland is very straight and I sometimes hear myself cheering when I recognise bends. By the way you shouldn't be confused seeing the approaching drivers wave their hands. That's quite normal here being a few Ks outside towns. The runner of the backpacker in Port Hedland is very friendly and gives me a special price for internet access. He is delighted at my pictures of Port Campbell NP in Victoria, where he grew up :-) NOTE: Port Hedland is a good starting place for a tour to Karijini NP, there is a big shopping center in town. Another NOTE: As for some other nationalparks the entrance fee for Karijini must be paid cash in an envelope, there is no chance for change! You may get information about the relevant entrance fee in your accomodation. Drinking gin and watching soccer I spend a pleasant night with the other guests in the backpacker.		Karijini
		June 12th, 2002 (Port Hedland -> Karijini NP) After the obligatory oil/water/petrol check I drive to Karijini NP. NOTE: Depending on your starting point you should refuel in Tom Price or at Munjina Roadhouse before entering the nationalpark! I pay the entrance fee by envelope and get a map of the park in the visitor center. NOTE: Here you find a sign showing the latest road conditions. Taking one of these roads you get to know why the road damage is called corrugation... After what seemed like hours I reach the car park of the Fortescue Falls, then walk down the 20 min. track to the falls. I've got no time for a swim, because I've still got to drive 60 kilometers with an average of 20-30 Ks per hour to reach my destination for today. Two and a half hours later - feeling somewhat closer related to the spirit of the outback - I park on the campsite near Weano Gorge. There's a dixie and a BBQ, that's it. By the way I needed more time for 80 kilometers on these unsealed roads than for 320 kilometers to hte park entrance. I spend the night talking with British emigrants who promise to bring me coffee in the morning ("You're German!"). Then I spend the first night in the car.		road in Karijini NP
		June 13th, 2002 (Karijini NP -> Nanutarra Roadhouse) About six o'clock sunrise is in the air and I have breakfast in the car, because it's somewhat cold outside. Suddenly a hot coffee appears in the window, great service!!! I walk to Handrail Pool and have to walk trough pretty cold water - refreshing ;-) Then I arrive at my personal Karijini highlight: Hancock Gorge. The hike is made of an occasionally very narrow path marked by orange arrows. I skip the last part because it seems too difficult to me and I'm on my own. NOTE: Don't risk too much! A rescue from the gorge might be extremly difficult! Before leaving Karijini I walk the few meters from the campsite to Oxer's Lookout which is worth coming. Then I move westwards passing Tom Price. My anticipation about driving on sealed roads again comes too early, about 65 kilometers of the highway are still unsealed but in good condition. On the way I see the first living kangaroo and even cows :-) I spend the night at Nanutarra Roadhouse, i.e. in my car again.		Hancock Gorge Canarvon
		June 14th, 2002 (Nanutarra Roadhouse -> Canarvon) I've got to pay pretty 2$30 for a coffee, but some things are just a must. The landscape becomes greener and greener. Luckily I take a new sealed road that leads me to Coral Bay. A guy in Port Hedland told me to come here, and he was right - at least if you like snorkling. I meet one of my friends again: a moorish idol :-) Although the girl from the rental didn't understand why ("What are you going to Canarvon for?") I continued to Canarvon. But I followed her TIP and left the highway to reach the blowholes north of Canarvon. A hundred kilometers that are once again worth driving! Finally entering Canarvon disillusionment overcomes me as I take a cold shower in the overbooked backpacker.		Blowholes MonkeyMia
		June 15th, 2002 (Canarvon -> Monkey Mia) My trip to the south leads me along the North-West-Coastal Highway and I take the road that gets off at the Overlander Roadhouse guiding me to Hamelin Pool, where I have a look at the damn old stromatolites. I stroll along Shell Beach which is the only other worthy stop at the road to Denham - westernmost town of Australia! - and my destination Monkey Mia. There I am reminded of my pictures of pelicans I took in Hervey Bay three years ago and start aiming again: pelikans.		Shell Beach
Darwin Kununurra Fitzroy Crossing Broome Karijini NP Monkey Mia Cervantes (Pinnacles) Hyden (Wave Rock) Pemberton Perth Rottnest Island		June 16th, 2002 (Monkey Mia -> Kalbarri) I try to be at the dolphin feeding right on time. The animals are wild - so they say - and come to the beach voluntarily. This morning there are just a few - if to speak of dolphins and not of people! Soon I'm heading south again meeting a emu. Without recognising I must have passed an imaginary "do-not-wave-to-the-approaching-traffic"-line!? I somewhat miss that behaviour! The entrance to Kalbarri NP is paid in an envelope again. Coming from the east you arrive first at Hawk's Head Lookout which is nice! 20 kilometers before the town Kalbarri you reach the road to Murchison Gorge. NOTE: Both The Loop/Nature's Window and Z-Bend are worth seeing. The light is best in the evening but you should allow some time for hiking. Kalbarri town is very idyllic and I've got my first cappuccino after a long break. The backpacker is pleasant as well, the only disadvantage is: The light in the toilet has a short timing, you have to hurry ;-)		Nature's Window Nambung
		June 17th, 2002 (Kalbarri -> Cervantes) I stroll along the coastline south of Kalbarri for two hours in the morning and explore several lookouts. It's a nice varying landscape! In Northampton I join highway A1 again. Passing Jurien Bay I arrive in Cervantes from where you reach the Pinnacles in Nambung NP. I am delighted! The isolated appearance of the pinnacles is amazing. NOTE: The best time for a visit is the late evening when the pinnacles throw long shadows until the sunset overwhelms you. The backpacker in Cervantes appears to be one of the best I know! Go to bed late, because I talk until midnight with my room mate Dave. He shows me some digital pictures of Perth and Rottnest Island, so that I'm looking forward to being there :-)		Pinnacles Desert Hyden
		June 18th, 2002 (Cervantes -> Hyden) This morning I recognise pleasedly that I was lucky with the weather yesterday as some rain is dripping down. What I don't know this early: It will rain all day on 570 kilometers to Wave Rock. Fortunately it stops just before sunset, so that I can explore Wave Rock without an umbrella. NOTE: You shouldn't only take the standard picture but also climb the rock and walk around it. The night is cold, I definitely left tropical latitudes...
		June 19th, 2002 (Hyden -> Albany) It was not in vain that I studied meteorology: I've probably got a good relation to the weather god as on this morning Wave Rock takes a bath in undisturbed sunlight. Amazingly it looks totally different from yesterday, much more colourful. By the way many people discuss the question "Is Wave Rock worth a two way trip of 700 kilometers? (from Perth)". I must say: YES, it is! After sunny pictures I visit the Wildlife Park near the rock. Here I can see the damage caused by a sandstorm from yesterday (when I called for accomodation yesterday I was told that I should be happy having ONLY strong rain!?). The wildlife park is not bad, e.g. you can see rare white kangaroos. Soon I'm heading Albany. Near Kurin a bored farmer used old barrels and drums to build several figures. Really funny! On the way to Albany I drive through the Stirling Ranges that can already be seen from far away in the plain area. In Albany I meet some guys from Munich and Berlin and we use the backpacker-voucher for a free beer in a nearby pub...		Wave Rock Pemberton
Darwin Kununurra Fitzroy Crossing Broome Karijini NP Monkey Mia Cervantes (Pinnacles) Hyden (Wave Rock) Pemberton Perth Rottnest Island		June 20th, 2002 (Albany -> Pemberton) It's cloudy but dry today. I drive a few Ks to see Torndirrup NP. Not bad but nothing compared to what I've seen so far. Particularly the Blowholes are ridiculous! Afterwards along the coastline to Walpole-Nornalup NP. First stop is the Tree Top Walk which doesn't hold what I expected. But the forest with the very high and impressive karri and tingle trees is interesting. There is a short track through the forest with good information given. Without refueling (Big mistake! But I was lucky to find a petrol station somewhere between two trees!) I repair to Pemberton. On the way I visit the NOTE: diamond tree which is an old tree for fire watching and warning. There's nobody there, but I nevertheless climb up to 52 meters height to relish the view above the canopy layer. And all that without paying an entrance fee! Because it's late I skip the more famous gloucester tree - which is a few meters higher but you have to pay for climbing - and have a look at Beedelup Falls in Beedelup NP.		Diamond Tree
		June 21st, 2002 (Pemberton -> Bunbury) Even with an extra blanket it was a cold night (probably the coldest of the whole holiday). I thaw taking a hot shower and go shopping to fill up my supplies. My next destination is Cape Leeuwin. I save 6$ by seeing the lighthouse only from outside and then follow the NOTE: Cave Road leading north. There are combined tickets if you like to visit more than one cave. I choose a guided tour through Lake Cave and a selfguided tour through Mammoth Cave, where you get a headset that prepares wireless information as you move through the cave. A very good idea! As time goes by I carry on to Cape Naturaliste. Planning your day trip you should mind that Cave Road allows only a very low average speed of about 40-50 km/h. Cape Naturaliste doesn't look like I expected from pictures but probably mainly because of a grey sky and not enough time for hiking. Because I got no accomodation in Rockhampton I have to drive to Bunbury. So I save some Ks for tomorrow when I have to drive to Perth and return the car. NOTE: For all places where you like to stay remember: "Looking for a bed? Call ahead!"		Lake Cave Perth
		June 22nd, 2002 (Bunbury -> Perth) Get up at 6.30 a.m. and give my full water tanks to the hostfather and drive on highway A1 to Perth. On the way I see a beautiful morning mist but I'm not allowed to stop on the highway :-( Then I miss the right freeway but as I bought a map of Perth in Albany I come back on track and appear right on time at Britz to return the car. A Yugoslavian taxi driver drops me at Witch's Hat in Northbridge charging 20$. It's quite warm and I walk to NOTE: Kings Park which offers a marvellous view to the city center. I stroll around within the Botanical Garden but it's wintertime and there's nothing much in bloom. I walk back to the backpacker via downtown NOTE: There are several different telephone cards in Australia. It is worth comparing tarifs for oversea calls. I phoned more than two hours to Germany for 10$ (~6 Euro). Many tarifs are cheaper using 40c for a local call instead of the free 1800-number!		Perth
		June 23rd, 2002 (Perth) I do the city tour from the Lonely Planet guide book, see some of the older buildings, i.e. from about 100 years ago :-) I take some time to have a look at the Perth Mynt. I extend the walk to the harbour with Bells Tower and book a ferry to Rottnest Island for tomorrow. NOTE: With the ferry ticket you can as well make a reservation for a bicycle which saves time when you arrive on the island as you get it directly when getting off the ferry.		Rottnest
Darwin Kununurra Fitzroy Crossing Broome Karijini NP Monkey Mia Cervantes (Pinnacles) Hyden (Wave Rock) Pemberton Perth Rottnest Island		June 24th, 2002 (Perth, Rottnest Island) A shuttle bus picks me up at the backpacker taking me to the ferry. The driver was born in Hamburg and emigrated from Germany with his parents when he was a child. Now he has a pleasant life in Perth which is much more relaxed than Sydney or Melbourne. The ferry is slowly following Swan River to Freemantle, from where it is just a stone's throw to the island. I explore Rottnest more or less clockwise finally reaching West End, passing Olivers Hill where I'm told how to find some of the famous quokkas, which were wrongly taken as rats when it was to find a name for the island. The woman on Olivers Hill tells me: "We can't let you go from Rotto without seeing a quokka!" And I was lucky :-) I carry on to West End fighting a strong wind and shallow but unnerving hills ;-) But I already knew from a room mate in Albany. And at least the wind comes from behind on the way back :-) NOTE: If you crossed the island without seeing a quokka you can try the quokka stop (look at the map you can get in the visitor center). It must be due to the plants that quokkas like to be there. After a cappuccino I take the ferry back to Perth. The driver from this morning brings me back to the Witch's Hat. At night I'm pretty shocked that there's a "Who wants to be a millionaire?" in Australia as well...		Rottnest Island
		Please read as well the travel diaries: Sydney-Darwin / Sydney-Cairns / Adelaide-Hobart