please read as well the diaries: Sydney-Darwin / Sydney-Carins / Darwin-Perth
Kangaroo Island
Mungo NP
Great Ocean Road
Melbourne/Fähre
Hobart I
Port Arthur
Freycinet NP
Launceston
Cradle Mountain NP
Hobart II
Sydney
- June 25th, 2002 (Perth -> Adelaide)
- Get up just after 6.00 o'clock in the morning and check in at the airport about 9.00 o'clock. In addition to two and half hours for the flight I lose one and a half hours time difference. I arrive at Sunny's Backpackers by shuttle. There NOTE: I ask for tours to Kangaroo Island. The internet access at the backpacker is for free, very welcome :-) After shopping I watch the soccer semifinal Germany vs South Korea (1:0). This time I feel more comfortable in
Adelaide than I did two years ago. Perhaps because by now I haven't seen a cockroach in the showers ;-)
- June 26th, 2002 (Adelaide)
- It's a cold shower this morning and some of the old cold feelings rise again when I hear that a damn joker turned off the gas-tap during the night ;-( But when I arrive at the breakfast the gas supply is restored so that we all can enjoy free pancakes. I add a free coffee and yoghurt. Following North Terrace I then walk to the Botanical Garden. Because it is wintertime there's nothing much in bloom. So I search for a nice view of the city walking along Torrens River. On the way I participate the NOTE: free guideance in the South Australian Art Gallery. After a while everything is going smoothly when I arrive at the place of Light's Vision. On the way back I fetch a won cheeseburger at McDonald's (Spell and W-I-N) but it doesn't really satisfy me. At night I book a day-trip to Kangaroo Island and watch the second semifinal of the soccer WC.
Botanical Garden,
Adelaide
Kangaroo
- June 27th, 2002 (Adelaide <-> Kangaroo Island)
- At 5 o'clock this morning the alarm-clock tells me to get up, at 6:20 a.m. I join the tour bus to Cape Jervis. From there the ferry leaves to Kangaroo Island where we finally arrive about 10:20 a.m. Our first stop on the island is Seal Bay, where we logically watched seals. You're are only allowed to approach the animals in company with a ranger and of course you can take great pictures! Heading to Flinders Chase Nationalpark we stopped at a road which is lined by trees that are famous for spotting koalas. Unfortunately these fellows tend to hide themselves successfully so you must have a good eye for them. After having lunch we reach Admirals Arch and the Remarkable Rocks. The latter are very impressive although they're just a handful of weathered granite rocks. Just before heading back to the ferry I'm glad to see at least one kangaroo on this island :-) After all a very good trip! Back in Adelaide we wind up the night with pool billard.
Remarkable Rocks
Hahndorf
Kangaroo Island
Mungo NP
Great Ocean Road
Melbourne/Fähre
Hobart I
Port Arthur
Freycinet NP
Launceston
Cradle Mountain NP
Hobart II
Sydney
- June 28th, 2002 (Adelaide)
- After a pancake breakfast I use the airport shuttle to get off half way at Britz car rental. I get the same model as before, this time it is coloured silver. I drive to NOTE: Mt.Lofty in the Adelaide Hills, from where you can have a beautiful view to Adelaide. Unfortunately it's rainy today ;-( I'm going on to Hahndorf where I have a potato soup in the Hahndorf Inn. The music in the background is awful, English versions of old German folk songs. Feels like being in alpine pasture. Like so often in foreign countries Germany is downscaled to Bavaria ;-( On balance I would say that you should only visit Hahndorf as long as it's somewhat on the way. I then drive to a nearby studio of a an originally German artist Hans Heysen called Cedars. He is famous for paintings of the Flinders Ranges. Then I turn back to Adelaide. NOTE: It's not easy to spot a parking lot in Adelaide and you're often only allowed to park for a short time. At night once again internet and pool billard.
- June 29th, 2002 (Adelaide -> Mildura)
- Today the weather is better, so I repair to Mt.Lofty once again to see Adelaide from above. Following the Scenic Drive I reach Birdswood where the National Motor Museum is a must for car lovers. Entering Barossa Valley I'm disappointed that the accomodation I chose is occupied. In addition the hostel in Lyndoch doesn't exist any more, so I get angry, because I should have checked that in advance by phone. I calm down relishing the beautiful view from NOTE: Mengler's Lookout. I then decide to drive on to Mildura although that means driving in the dark. Reappearing anti fruit-fly campaigns are not encouraging but at least the day isn't over yet. Although I called the backpacker in Mildura from Barossa Valley I cannot stay there when I reach it because the owner isn't at home and nobody else has a key! The search begins and it takes about one hour until I surrender and book a room in a motel which isn't more expensive than a bed in a backpacker. Try to book a tour to Mungo Nationalpark but although it is said that it leaves daily, there are no tours on Sunday!Well then, I have got pasta for dinner - prepared in a very dirty kitchen - and watch soccer.
Mildura
- June 30th, 2002 (Mildura)
- Get up late this time and have breakfast in the well known kitchen. Some guys fry thick onions and lots of eggs, a fat man says Sorry!, takes away my lighter, lights his and even my pilot light and turns away. I claim back my lighter and he says Oh, I forgot! That reinforces my guess that there might be a lot of criminals around. Well, now I have to get over with Sunday as the tour to Mungo is my only reason to be here. In the Alfred Deacon Visitor Center I book a tour for tomorrow and then NOTE: watch two movies about Mildura which are shown in the visitor centre every half an hour (or on request). Not bad to get an idea of the city, the history of fruit plantation and problems with irrgation in this mostly dry area. Things get better, the cappucino is accompanied by a biscuit! Naturally I do the cruise on Murray River on the historical paddle-steamer Melbourne. It's not bad but probably most interesting for people with children or people who like to pass through locks ;-) For tonight I buy some local beers and then watch the final of the soccer WC.
seagulls
Mungo
Kangaroo Island
Mungo NP
Great Ocean Road
Melbourne/Fähre
Hobart I
Port Arthur
Freycinet NP
Launceston
Cradle Mountain NP
Hobart II
Sydney
- July 1st, 2002 (Mildura <-> Mungo Nationalpark)
- Yesterday the kitchen was dirty, today it still is. Yesterday there was a toaster in the kitchen, today it is missing! But it is a great weather outside! I'm picked up right on time heading Lake Mungo on about 110 Ks. Our guide explains a lot on the way, but it's difficult to get a word. Very often there is anything on our left hand side or on our right hand side and about 3000 times out there or and there or even both. The last 65 kilometers are unsealed. Arriving at the dried Lake Mungo we stroll through the interesting Visitor Center, then after having lunch we cross the lake to see the Walls of China and archaeological founds. The dunes look spectacular, it was worth coming! On the way back I get off at coles supermarket and walk to the motel. At nitght I plan my route to Melbourne and make a reservation for a bed in the YHA in Ballarat.
Mungo NP
Ballarat
- July 2nd, 2002 (Mildura <-> Ballarat)
- What can happen after a dirt in the kitchen and a stolen toaster? E.g. the gas bottle can be empty! So I have to use the electric stove to boil some water for a coffee which takes some time as it hasn't much power. Finally I check out and drive to Ballarat where I check in on Sovereign Hill about 3 o'clock p.m. There is a Korean guy on my room who is astonished that I'm able to write my name in hangul (see more about my time in South Korea at www.koreabilder.de). I have a look on the rebuilt gold mining town on Sovereign Hill. They allow me to hold a just cast ingot of 3kg. After a somewhat anachronistic cappucino I ask for an internet cafe in the YHA. Both recommendations fail and returning from the city I lose my way! Fortunately I'm able to read maps so that I come back on track. Tomorrow I will see the Grampians.
- July 3rd, 2002 (Ballarat <-> Grampians Nationalpark)
- I leave early to reach the Grampians before noon. Unfortunately the weather isn't encouraging. I buy NOTE: a map at the Info-Center in Stawell and decide to climb Mount Stapylton, which is partly steep. There is a lot of mist on the summit and later it starts raining. Nevertheless it is a nice hike. The Grampians are once again as fascinating as they were when I walked along the Wonderland Track two years ago. Suddenly I'm confused, because all tracks lead uphill, but then I remember that it is allright... I hide from the rain in a small cave but then recognise that it will not stop raining within the next hours ;-( Sometimes I even can imagine what I could have seen if the weather was better. Back at the car I decide to climb Mt Zero but after ten minutes I surrender due to even heavier rain. Back home! In the Tourist Center in Ballarat I finally get internet access, then plan the route for tomorrow.
Mt Stapylton,
Grampians NP
GOR
Kangaroo Island
Mungo NP
Great Ocean Road
Melbourne/Fähre
Hobart I
Port Arthur
Freycinet NP
Launceston
Cradle Mountain NP
Hobart II
Sydney
- July 4th, 2002 (Ballarat -> Lorne)
- After breakfast and check-out I visit the gold museum, which is included in the ticket for Sovereign Park. It is an interesting museum and worth a visit. I carry on to Geelong, where I ask my way to the backpacker which isn't easy as there are people who do not know the names of the streets at the next corner ;-( Although beds are prepared and the kitchen is well equipped a neighbour tells me that the backpacker is closed in winter! Why do I always recommend to phone in advance??? I scan the Lonely Planet and make a reservation in the YHA in Lorne. So I will see the fascinating Great Ocean Road again! Passing Torquay I drive to Lorne. There I get a map of the area and follow the NOTE: worthwhile suggestions of the Lonely Planet: Teddy's Lookout and Erskine Waterfalls. Due to improving weather conditions I as well walk to the small Sheoak Falls. Driving on the Great Ocean Road is once again exciting! And it is amazing that we missed all these places two years ago! Pasta for dinner in the YHA. A room mate tells me how to find the Britz in Melbourne where I have to return my car. And he tells me that there's a train going to town and how I can come to Port Melbourne from where the ferry leaves to Tasmania. He laughs when I report about my time at the Motor Inn in Mildura. But we both agree that the Hungarian wife of the owner there looks pretty ;-)
Erskine Waterfalls,
Great Ocean Road
Melbourne
- July 5th, 2002 (Lorne -> Melbourne)
- Get up at 6.15 a.m.being two hours away from Melbourne. Accidentally the part of the city map I need is covered by a Britz advertisement, but I remember that my room mate told me that Britz is situated in a suburb called Sunshine (This name is a sheer mockery as there are industries all over!) and he was right :-) I claim back 25$ I paid too much for car insurance and then use the free internet access. Walking to the train station with all my luggage a Greek guy speaks to me going into raptures about communication and visions he likes to realize in the WWW. He clings to me like a limpet, talks about sharing business with me and likes to show me the city. At Flinders St Station I fortunately get rid of him! NOTE: I lock my luggage at Traveller's Aid which is much cheaper than at the train station! I walk to Queen Victoria Market where you can buy almost everything you can imagine. Then internet cafe in Elizabeth St and afterwards with the luggage to Port Melbourne by tram. I check in on the Spirit of Tasmania. NOTE: From here you have a beautiful view to Melbourne's skyline! Yet before leaving Melbourne I go for dinner and soon go to bed. Sleeping is not easy due to wobbling and clattering!
Spirit of Tasmania
HobartI
- July 6th, 2002 (Devonport -> Hobart)
- Breakfast before 7 o'clock in the morning. NOTE: I book a bus from Devonport to Hobart directly on the ferry. Entering Tasmania the whole luggage is inspected. Once again the fruit fly is the main enemy. After a while I'm sitting in the correct bus and watch the hilly green pasture. At 1.30 p.m. I arrive in Hobart. I do the Lonely Planet city walk and then look for a proper supermarket but fail...
Kangaroo Island
Mungo NP
Great Ocean Road
Melbourne/Fähre
Hobart I
Port Arthur
Freycinet NP
Launceston
Cradle Mountain NP
Hobart II
Sydney
- July 7th, 2002 (Hobart)
- I take a cab to Britz and get a dark blue model this time. The taxi driver told me to NOTE: drive to the summit of Mt Wellington as long as it is visible. So I do and am happy as the road is just opened after snowfall. I relish the fantastic view! Then I drive along the coast in the southwest of Hobart following the suggestion of the Lonely Planet. There is one nice unsealed part leading to NOTE: Police Point between Surges Bay and Dover. Here you can get a good impression of typical Tasmanian pasture. Instead of driving to Hastings Cave I depart to Hartz Mountains Nationalpark. It is about 12 Ks over a stony road to Waratah Lookout which is covered in mist. I only continue because another guy coming from uphill says that Arve Falls are nice and just a stone's throw away. He was right :-) Heading back home I listen to the good music selection of NOTE: Triple T (100.9).
Hobart as seen
from Mount Wellington
- July 8th, 2002 (Hobart <-> Bruny Island)
- I take the ferry from Kettering to Bruny Island. NOTE: I buy a park pass that allows me to visit all Tasmanian Nationalparks within two months. That is cheaper than buying single tickets for each NP. 15 minutes later I start driving across the northern part of the island. It is raining a bit and due to the mostly unsealed roads the car gets very dirty. But the weather is getting better when I reach the neck which is a narrow piece of land connecting the northern and the southern part of Bruny Island. It is a nice view from the wooden steps, so don't hesitate to climb them! I decided to climb Mount Mangana which is the highest point of the island. It is a nice walk lasting less than an hour but unfortunately there is not much you can see from the summit as anything interesting is hidden by trees. I then head down to Cape Bruny in South Bruny Nationalpark. On the balance the whole trip was not bad but not really convincing. On my room I meet a guy who recommends to see Freycinet Nationalpark and Cradle Mountain. Well, I would have done that anyway ;-)
The Neck, Bruny Island
Port Arthur
- July 9th, 2002 (Hobart -> Port Arthur)
- Before heading eastwards I drive to Taroona Shot Tower in the north west of the capital. Then back through the city crossing Tasman Bridge heading Port Arthur. Spontaneously I stop at Seven Mile Beach having a cappucino while watching the sea. Then back on the A9 crossing Forestier peninsula reaching to the neighbouring Tasman peninsula. I have a look at several rock formations, the most interesting ones are Tesselated Pavement and Tasman Arch. In Taranna I stop to see Tasmanian devils in the Park of the same name. It is amazing to watch these guzzling animals being fed ;-) Because I'm not yet in mood for Port Arthur I first visit Remarkable Cave but then surrender to the thicker clouds and park my car at the former punishment camp Port Arthur. It is a comprehensive documentation but nevertheless expensive, althought the ticket even involves a ferry trip around the Isle of Dead and a guided tour which in my case is stopped early due to rain. So I start looking for the YHA which is nearby. Because it is cold inside I spend the night at the fireplace trying to burn damp wood...
Kangaroo Island
Mungo NP
Great Ocean Road
Melbourne/Fähre
Hobart I
Port Arthur
Freycinet NP
Launceston
Cradle Mountain NP
Hobart II
Sydney
- July 10th, 2002 (Port Arthur -> Coles Bay)
- I almost drive back the whole way to Hobart today but then get off the main road heading Richmond. There I take the obligatory picture of the oldest road bridge of Australia. I continue to Ross where I find the third oldest bridge. Using minor roads and getting angry about some car drivers who either sleep driving or run far too fast but never move with regular speed I finally arrive in Coles Bay where I check in at Iluka YHA. Coles Bay is next to Freycinet Nationalpark where I do the walk to Wineglass Bay Lookout and the beach of the same name. There I have a rest and then decide to cross the lagoon to reach the opposite beach called Hazards Beach. It is worth doing, but on the way back I have to hurry a bit to be back at the car during daylight. A wallaby is curiously expecting me there :-)
Hazards Beach,
Freycinet NP
- July 11th, 2002 (Coles Bay -> Bridport)
- My first stop today are Friendly Beaches which belong to Freycinet Nationalpark and are nice for a walk in the morning. If you're lucky you will see some wallbies there. Passing through St.Helens in the north I reach Columba Falls which are said to be the highest falls of Tasmania but they do not live up to expectations. Back on the A3 and a lot of bends later (NOTE: In the north east of Tasmania your average speed will be low particularly on the A3 between St.Helens and Scottsdale.) I pass Gladstone and enter Mount William Nationalpark. It's just amazing that I meet a wombat on the way :-) I walk to the summit of Mt.William and am rewarded with a great view. Soon I return and finally drive to Bridport where I find a well equipped YHA. It seems that I'm the only guest tonight as this area is not really crowded in winter. Nevertheless the runners do a good job and even book my accommodation in Launceston for tomorrow. I tidy out my belongings (flyers a.s.o.) and warm myself up in front of the electric heater before I go to bed.
Wombat
- July 12th, 2002 (Bridport -> Launceston)
- After an obligatory hot shower and two free coffees I drive to Launceston via Scottsdale and continue to Liffey Falls. Coming from the east the approach is not easy as there lie large parts of trees across the road and I can hardly handle that by car. NOTE: Coming from the north it is much easier but a bit longer. The falls are nicely situated although not very high. The best pictures are taken from off the track. Following the A5 I return to Launceston where I need some time to find the car park from where I walk along Cataract Gorge. It is a nice and sunny evening for walking. Back in the city I look for the cheapest internet cafe and then watch the Gladiator-tape in the backpacker.
Liffey Falls
Launceston
Kangaroo Island
Mungo NP
Great Ocean Road
Melbourne/Fähre
Hobart I
Port Arthur
Freycinet NP
Launceston
Cradle Mountain NP
Hobart II
Sydney
- July 13th, 2002 (Launceston -> Stanley)
- I buy some meat and peppers and am looking forward to having dinner the whole day, because I have had a lot of noodles with tomato sauce the last days. Today: Table Cape near Wynyard, Rocky Cape Nationalpark (because I have the park pass) where I collect snail-shells and Stanley next to the Nut. The weather is having its ups and downs and so has my mood. I park my car at the YHA in Stanley and climb the nut. Once again it is a nice view from the summit. On the way back I like to have a cappucino in the Nut Rock Cafe but unfortunately they closed meanwhile. I don't know why as it is 3 p.m., the best time for having a coffee! But after all at least my dinner lives up to expectations. In the late evening two older woman from Australia and Finland appear, the driver asks me whether the blue car belongs to me. When I agree she prodly says I didn't hit it! Looking out of the window I ask myself who is the older one: the woman or her car? We talk the rest of the night and the Finn uses my NOTE: socket adapter to recharge the batteries of her video camera.
- July 14th, 2002 (Stanley -> Cradle Valley)
- Same procedure as every morning, then back to Wynyard and through Hellyer Gorge to Cradle Valley. I get a map in the Tourist Center and directly drive to NOTE: Dove Lake. I do the walk around the lake and am happy that I can occasionally see the whole Cradle Mountain through the mist. In comparison to many other elevations this one deserves the name mountain ;-) I walk to Gustav Weindorfer's Waldheim and several small waterfalls sometimes watched by a curious Pademelon. After checking in at Cosy Cabins I walk to the Wilderness Cafe where I have to leave at 5 p.m. Back home the kitchen is the place to meet people and in front of the door a nasty and somewhat aggressive possum begs for food.
Cradle Mountain NP
Strahan
- July 15th, 2002 (Cradle Valley -> Strahan)
- The sky is cloudy when I drive to Zeehan heading Strahan. The view from the Ocean Beach Lookout is not very encouraging. So I scan the guide book and return about 50 kilometers to Rosebury from where it is not far to Williamsford where the walking track to NOTE: Montezuma Falls starts. It takes me three hours return and Montezuma Falls are really the best waterfalls I've seen in Australia! Then again heading Strahan stopping at the nice NOTE: Henty Dunes where I go for a stroll for half an hour. I look over Strahan from Water Tower Lookout and back in the YHA meet two English guys I know from Port Arthur. They travelled around Tasmania clockwise. On TV there is once again Who wants to be a millionaire.
Henty Dunes
HobartII
Kangaroo Island
Mungo NP
Great Ocean Road
Melbourne/Fähre
Hobart I
Port Arthur
Freycinet NP
Launceston
Cradle Mountain NP
Hobart II
Sydney
- July 16th, 2002 (Strahan -> Hobart)
- It is not raining until I reach the petrol station... I can take the first dry picture today in Queenstown and follow the A10 doing the first stop at NOTE: Nelson Falls which belong to Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers Nationalpark and can be reached by a ten-minute-walk from the car park. Unfortunately there's no use going to Donaghys Hill because it is again raining cats and dogs. I drive to Lake St Clair but it's still rainy. It remains like that until I arrive at Mount Field Nationalpark. So I enjoy walking to NOTE: Russell Falls and other falls as well as the Tall Trees. Then I return to Hobart passing through New Norfolk with its fields for hop growing.
hop growing
- July 17th, 2002 (Hobart)
- I may use the car the last day and once again I drive to Mt Field Nationalpark but continue via B61 to Southwest Nationalpark. The road leads to Gordon Dam passing NOTE: Lake Pedder and Lake Gordon. On the way I catch a view of the snow covered Mt Field West and enjoy the whole pasture although it is sometimes rainy again. Interesting ranges are e.g. Sentinel Range and Saw Back Range. On balance I drove a lot of kilometers, but it was worth doing! On the way back I stop at Mt Field Nationalpark again for a stroll to Lady Barron Falls. Then I return the car in Hobart and drive back to the city by bus (2$ instead of 20$ for a taxi).
Lake Pedder,
Southwest NP
- July 18th, 2002 (Hobart)
- I go for a stroll in Hobart with two room mates. One of them is from Ireland and has been living in Hobart for twelve years. We walk to the Casino which is Hobart's most conspicuous taller building. Due to a long way we quit visiting Cascade Brewery and look for a billard cafe where we spend some hours. After shopping and having dinner we then try some pubs. Today no kilometers by car ;-)
- July 19th, 2002 (Hobart -> Sydney)
- Around 8 o'clock a.m. I'm picked up by the airport shuttle. I forget to put my pocket knife into my rucksack, so it is taken out when I check in ;-( During the flight to Sydney I can take pictures of Flinders Island and the Snowy Mountains :-) In Sydney I take the shuttle to the Central and then hop on the Northern Line to Roseville where I will stay with friends. They show me pictures of the Kimberleys, Kakadu Nationalpark and Tasmania. At night we go out for dinner with friends.
Flinders Island
- July 20th, 2002 (Sydney)
- I visit the Australian Museum where there is an exhibition about dinosaur's skeletons found in China. I have the last McOz-menu and then stroll through downtown not needing any map. I visit an interesting picture gallery and continue to Circular Quay where I spend some time in a cafe watching the boat traffic at Harbour Bridge. Due to nice weather I then go to NOTE: Point Macquarie, where I read a bit and wait for the sunset which turns out to be great! At night back home for dinner and a chat with my friends.
Opera House and
Harbour Bridge, Sydney
Kangaroo Island
Mungo NP
Great Ocean Road
Melbourne/Fähre
Hobart I
Port Arthur
Freycinet NP
Launceston
Cradle Mountain NP
Hobart II
Sydney
- July 21st, 2002 (Sydney -> Frankfurt)
- After breakfast we drive to Curlcurl Beach for a short walk which is a nice end of my holidays. Then I take the train from Chatswood to the airport. NOTE: Tickets to the airport are always more expensive then regular tickets! I pay 11,60$ one way and could have had a return ticket to the city for 3,70$! I spend the rest of my Australian money on a burger and a cappucino flying home with a single 20c-coin :-) During the flight I watch Big Fat Liar and Panic Room on tape, play Tetris, Memory, Hangman and Trivial-Quiz. After a stop in Singapore I have got a whole row of seats for myself so that I can sleep and just wake up for meals. About 5.10 a.m. on July 22nd I arrive at Frankfurt airport.
- please read as well the diaries: Sydney-Darwin / Sydney-Carins / Darwin-Perth